Sicilian tuna fisheries, a maritime culture that never fades
For centuries, Sicily has been a land of fishermen and maritime traditions. Among these, one of the oldest and most fascinating is the tonnare (tuna fisheries), tuna traps used for catching bluefin tuna. These fisheries have not only shaped the island’s economy but have also deeply influenced the culture and social life of entire communities. Today, Sicilian tuna fisheries are an important part of the island’s cultural heritage, despite the decline of this practice due to shifts in the global market and a growing focus on marine resource sustainability. Join us at Sicilian Secrets as we explore the most famous ones.
The origins of Sicilian tuna fisheries trace back to antiquity. As early as the 9th to 6th centuries BCE, the Phoenicians, who dominated the Mediterranean, were among the first to develop organized techniques for catching bluefin tuna. This prized fish, known for its high-quality meat, was a luxury item that traversed Mediterranean trade routes, reaching distant cultures such as the Egyptians and Greeks. During the Roman period, tuna fishing and processing became even more organized, with the establishment of ‘cetariae’ — facilities where fish were preserved and processed — and the spread of ‘garum’, a popular Roman sauce made from fermented fish entrails.
An ancient tradition
However, it was during the Middle Ages that Sicilian tuna fisheries took on the structure we know today, thanks to the influence of the Arabs and, later, the Normans. The tuna fishery was arranged as a series of chambers or nets placed in the sea to trap tuna during their spring migration through Sicilian waters. The most dramatic — albeit brutal — moment was the mattanza, or ‘slaughter’, which took place in the so-called ‘chamber of death’. This was where the tuna were caught and killed, in a ritualistic practice charged with symbolism and tradition, led by a team of fishermen under the guidance of the rais, a central figure in managing the tuna fishery. The word ‘mattanza’ comes from the Latin ‘mactare’, meaning ‘to kill or sacrifice’, aptly capturing the emotional intensity and communal involvement this practice once evoked among locals.
Sicilian tuna fisheries, today
Tuna fishing was widespread along Sicily’s coast, with certain locations becoming famous for their historic tuna fisheries, which impacted the economy and social life of generations. The industry reached its peak in the 19th century, thanks in part to the Florio family, who owned numerous Sicilian tuna fisheries. However, from the mid-20th century, the practice began to decline due to factors like fishing industrialization and the advent of more modern and efficient methods, which rendered traditional tuna fisheries obsolete and economically unfeasible.
Today, only a few Sicilian tuna fisheries are still active, primarily for tourism or cultural purposes, preserving a piece of the island’s heritage. In many cases, the old structures have been restored and repurposed as tourist attractions where visitors can learn about the history of tuna fishing and the communities that thrived around it. Additionally, a growing awareness of environmental sustainability and the preservation of marine resources has led to greater emphasis on responsible bluefin tuna fishing, aiming to protect this valuable species while respecting local traditions.
Which tuna fisheries to visit? Here are three destinations to add to your wish list!
Favignana
The tuna fishery of Favignana, one of the largest and most famous in Sicily, is located in the Aegadian Islands. Although no longer in operation, it was, for centuries, one of the main centers for bluefin tuna fishing and processing in the Mediterranean. Its history is closely linked to the Florio family, who, in the 19th century, transformed this tuna fishery into a full-fledged industry, introducing modern preservation and processing methods, such as canning tuna in oil.
Marzamemi
The tuna fishery of Marzamemi, in southeastern Sicily, is one of the oldest tuna fisheries, with roots dating back to the 10th century. Founded by the Arabs, the area has since grown into a picturesque seaside village, enchanting visitors with its beauty and its rich history tied to tuna fishing.
Scopello
Located on the northwestern coast of the island near the Zingaro Nature Reserve, the tuna fishery of Scopello is one of the most charming and well-preserved tuna fisheries. Originally built in the 13th century, it underwent numerous renovations over the centuries, with significant upgrades by the Florio family. The last slaughter took place in the 1980s, and though no longer active, Scopello has become a popular tourist destination for its stunning setting and immersive glimpse into this ancient craft.
